chronicles of ko

Yes, I am among the throngs of screaming fans willing to drop a good chunk of change for the opportunity to experience the epic two-plus hour meal at David Chang's dining concept known as ko. Not once, but twice and no doubt maybe more (if the Internet gods smile upon me as they have thus far). And no, I'm not one of those crazy-obsessed junkies synching my clock to the infamous reservation system's to ensure scoring one of the many coveted spots at the golden counter. I happen to check every so often, and every so often it turns out my timing is just right. So here it goes...

As we all know, no pictures allowed inside the temple of ko, and I see no reason to go into lengthy discussion dish-by-dish. Rather, the experience overall is what interests me more and what I prefer to share with whomever chooses to listen.

Having scored the resy, I immediately scrambled to try and find three companions for this feasting fest. First, the email to my partner-in-crime. This girl is game. I have dragged her to more dinners, tastings and gorge-fests than I care to count, and she's always up for the challenge. Done. Three more to fill. Without expressing an excess of exasperation and frustration, let's just say those last three were trying. In / out, back-and-forth - people agreeing and pulling out. Who wouldn't jump at the chance? The hefty price tag bears a certain burden. I hear that. But come on...go for it. Ah well. I suppose I can't impose my own priority hierarchy on others. In the end, we were a three-top hoping for the best (i.e. not having to pay for a phantom fourth), and once again, the culinary (and monetary) gods let us know we were in their good graces sending us a group who came in shortly after us hoping to squeeze an extra into their party. Off the hook.

As for the food, well there's really too much to say for this humble blog. And my praise, while completely earnest, is really no different than any other true fan. When it comes to the whole meal the experience is worth the investment. Flavors both simple and complex within a single bite, and dishes prepared with an artist's flair and a genius imagination. The coddled egg has been a standout in both my earlier and most recent meals. Something about the way the yolk oozes out when broken into and pervades the other components (hackleback caviar, onion soubise, mini potato chips and chervil) is wholly satisfying and completely sexy. The shaved foie gras with lychees and white wine gelee is another that has not only received accolades, but has actually driven some to tears of exaltation; decadent and surprising, and not in the least bit disappointing. And at the end of this culinary peregrination, the yellow cake batter ice cream was the perfect way to sum up the experience: playful, delectable and left a smile that hasn't quite left my face, two days later.

Yes, David Chang, you have one more devotee. Your cup runneth over.